Sve o hlađenju motora Minija!

[Fakin]

Cooling - Controlling water temperature


The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini's systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the 'S' was marginal to say the least!

It wasn't uncommon for many S's to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following?

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 - 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil's unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance - the results outlined previously. Another being that the heater (where needed) will be grossly inefficient. So, excluding race-cars, the optimum temperature to aim for is 85 to 90 degrees C (185 to 194 degrees F).

Radiators. No amount of tweaking the rest of the cooling system will help if there simply isn't enough cooling capacity in the radiator. Water capacity used to be the answer, hence the production of four-core radiators. It's possible the improvement in cooling was a product of more surface area created by the extra tubes, but the inefficient airflow through the congested radiator area reduced its ultimate effectiveness. In reality, effective surface area's the answer, and why the latest after-market, super-efficient two-core radiators are the best. The standard radiator can just about cope with a standard engine in most cases. The exception appearing to be the fuel injected cars. They'll stand the limited modifications that can be made without problems. Perhaps it's the 'brain' compensating for it somehow in trimming ignition and fuel? If you're significantly increasing the power output, I strongly advise fitting one of the aforementioned two-core radiators. And ALWAYS have water flowing out of the heater tap take-off. If no heater or auxiliary matrix is used, plumb it into the top hose. If it's put back into the bottom hose it won?t work properly, if at all. The water going into the bottom hose at that point MUST be below that in the main hose coming out of the radiator.

I'd like a pound-sterling for every time I've seen an oil cooler doing duty as an auxiliary water radiator. They simply don't work. Well, they do a little. Their design makes them grossly inefficient as the water flows through too quickly, and material spec causes minimal heat transfer. If you need to run an auxiliary radiator, use a heater matrix. See 'Cooling - How it works' for hook-up details.

An expansion tank could be the answer if your motor runs at the right temperature, but is prone to spewing water out the over-flow at odd occasions. Usually when come to a standstill after tramping-on a bit. Water passes into it when over-flow occurs when hot then is drawn back in again when cooling down. Make sure the pressure cap's fitted to the expansion tank and a flat, plain cap on the radiator.

Fans. They're there to cool the engine whilst at low speed. Fact. Once above 35 mph or so, it's airflow through the radiator that does the cooling. Electric fans only help up to about 30 mph, so fitting one won't cure hot running at speed. The fan creates a barrier to airflow at speed; trimming the blades down in length (NOT removing blades) can often help. Generally the standard plastic fans are the best all-round as they are aerofoil shaped, cutting power consumed, increasing airflow, and quietest running. Two-blade fans are good but noisy, four-blade fans made up of two two-blade fans more so of each. Six-blade 'export/tropical' fans better, but noisier! Both eat horsepower.

Water pumps. One good thing that came from 'S' development - an improved water pump! Unfortunately, the water pump has fallen into the oil pump syndrome - biggest is best! True for road cars spending most of their time at low-ish rpm under load, but not for high revving engines. The A-series pump is essentially centrifugal; it's pumping capability squaring with engine rpm. The design's such that maximum efficiency's around 2,000rpm, so at low speed it's hardly moving any water. At 2,000 rpm it's pumping all the water needed to cool the engine, so higher rpm just means it's sapping power. If your engine spends all it's time north of 3,500 rpm or so, a deep impeller pump is costing power, and may be causing cavitation, reducing cooling efficiency. To mediate the A-plus motors got a bigger diameter pump pulley (first seen on the Ss'), and should be used where possible on modified road engines.

I would very strongly advise against the use of the after-market water pumps that have the 'folded tin' impellor as opposed to the cast iron one on the original equipment types. They are grossly inefficient and have a tendency for the impellor to fall off at the worst moments! There are some about with plastic impellors. They seem OK, but I haven't put one to test on a race motor yet. All I can say is I haven't seen a road car with one fitted that has failed yet.

Recent testing has seen the growing popularity of electric water pumps. These have to be the ultimate answer, as their pumping capacity remains constant, as they're completely independent of engine speed. Consequently cooling efficiency is far greater. The only two drawbacks being their initial cost, and installation, as adaptors have to be made up to blank-off the water pump mounting hole. Both, however, are well worth it - the results are outstanding. Not to mention the fact the water pump consumes power to drive it and reduces accelerative power output - to the tune of 4 bhp on a small-bore engine and 2 bhp on the large-bore ones! A further benefit is that the pump can be left running with the engine off after a race/hot/long journey to reduce the problems associated with the 'heat-sink' effects of non-circulating coolant at stand-still. For further information on electric pumps, see relevant article.

Coolant additives. Too many folk seek solace in antifreeze. They keep adding more and more in the hope it'll solve their problems. Whilst a small amount of antifreeze does help marginally as it breaks down the water's surface tension (waters only real drawback as a major coolant), in large amounts it actually makes matters worse (see 'Cooling - How it works' for further information).

The only additive I've ever tested that actually lives up to expectation/recommendation is Redline's Water-Wetter. This stuff basically breaks down water's surface tension without affecting its cooling capability. This maximises water's wetting capability, getting as much water against the metal surfaces of the water jacket as possible. Consequently it prevents the hot-spot syndrome outlined in 'Cooling - How it works'. I always use the liquid product (they do it in crystalised form too, but I'm not so keen on that). Temperature reductions in the order of 8-10 degrees have been experienced. Brilliant stuff. It also acts as a corrosion inhibitor - effective enough to stop ALL corrosion on the block water jacket walls, and the water pump impellor/housing. Lubricates the water pump seals too. Most impressive. For the racers even more good news is it doesn't make your slicks slippery if it gets out of the cooling system.
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[Kramer]

Kaj si ti LUDIII!?!?!?!

Pa ko bu to èitao!?!?!?
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Oni su mali, ali su veliki, mislim nisu vise mali ali su dovoljno veliki da ne budu mali

[vajzgaj]

JAAZ!!!
Pa ovak nesh zanimljivo ne vidjeh josh od devedestisedme i II toma Rata i mira.
EEEEE to su bila vremena zlatna, mlad, zgodan, visok,a Tolstoj u ruci ponosno stoji!
SHMRC
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2kul4skul

[Blython]

In the expansive world of Elden Ring, one of the most valuable resources you’ll encounter is the rune, the in-game currency used for leveling up, purchasing items, and upgrading equipment. As you journey through the Lands Between, it’s easy to get lured into the temptation of collecting more runes at every opportunity. However, not every rune pile is what it seems, and falling into certain traps can result in massive losses. Understanding what runes are for in Elden Ring Runes and how to avoid some of the game’s biggest rune bait traps can save you time, frustration, and precious runes.
What Are the Runes for in Elden Ring?

Before diving into the specifics of rune bait traps, it’s essential to understand the role runes play in Elden Ring. Runes are the primary form of currency in the game and serve multiple crucial purposes:

Leveling Up: By using runes, you can increase your character's stats, making you more powerful in combat.

Purchasing Items: Runes are used to buy weapons, armor, consumables, and upgrade materials.

Upgrading Equipment: Runes help you enhance your gear, making it more effective in battles.

Fast Travel and Other Services: Certain services, like fast traveling to specific locations, also require runes to access.

Given their importance, protecting your runes becomes a top priority as you explore the dangerous world of Elden Ring.
The Dangers of Rune Bait Traps

As you venture through Elden Ring, you will often come across rune piles or areas that appear to promise a lucrative reward. However, many of these seemingly harmless rune piles are part of cleverly designed traps that can cost you your hard-earned runes. Let’s take a closer look at some of the most notorious rune bait traps in the game.
1. Rune Piles Near Powerful Enemies

One of the most common rune traps in Elden Ring involves piles of runes placed near powerful enemies or groups of enemies. These enemies are typically much stronger than the average foes you encounter, and their proximity to the rune piles entices you to rush in and collect the reward.

How to avoid it:
Before running toward any rune pile, take a moment to assess the situation. Is the area surrounded by enemies that seem tougher than usual? If yes, proceed with caution. It might be better to clear out the enemies first or find a safer route to collect the runes.
2. Ambushes by Mimics

Mimicry is a key mechanic in Elden Ring, and rune bait traps often make use of this feature. You may come across what looks like an innocent pile of runes, only to discover that it is actually a mimic waiting to ambush you when you get too close.

How to avoid it:
Always be cautious when approaching any object in Elden Ring. If something seems too good to be true, it probably is. You can often identify mimics by their unnatural positioning or the strange behavior of the object you’re looking at. Keep your guard up and be ready to react.
3. Traps Hidden Beneath Rune Piles

In some cases, rune piles are placed above hidden traps, such as spikes, pits, or explosive hazards. These traps are designed to lure you in with the promise of easy rewards, but stepping too close can lead to immediate death.

How to avoid it:
Be mindful of the environment around you. If you see runes near the edge of a cliff or platform, make sure to carefully examine the surroundings before making your move. If the runes seem to be in a place that would normally be hazardous, it’s better to approach with caution and scout for any signs of hidden danger.
4. Rune Bait in Poisonous or Debuff Areas

Some rune piles are located in areas that are hazardous to your health, like poisonous swamps or cursed zones. While the lure of collecting runes is strong, stepping into these areas can cause long-lasting debuffs or damage over time that outweighs the value of the runes.

How to avoid it:
Before venturing into any area filled with hazardous conditions, check if you have any items or buffs that can protect you from poison, disease, or other environmental effects. If not, it may be best to avoid these areas altogether or find a way to mitigate the hazards before collecting the runes.
5. Falling into the "Greed Trap"

In Elden Ring, there’s always a temptation to collect as many runes as possible, especially when they’re scattered in large quantities. This leads many players into the "greed trap," where they rush to pick up runes without thinking about the potential risks involved.

How to avoid it:
Always keep your priorities in check. Runes are important, but losing them due to overzealous greed can be worse than walking away with fewer rewards. Take your time, plan your movements, and always evaluate whether collecting the runes is worth the risk. In many cases, it might be better to come back for them later, once the immediate dangers are cleared.
Additional Tips for Protecting Your Runes

In addition to avoiding rune bait traps, there are a few other strategies to help you keep your runes safe:

Use Rune Arcs and Grace Sites: Always use your Rune Arc and seek out the nearest Site of Grace to save your progress. This way, even if you lose your runes, you can recover them if you reach the spot where you died.

Take Advantage of Golden Scarabs: The Gold Scarab talisman increases the number of runes you gain from defeating enemies, making it an excellent item to farm more runes safely.

Consider Risk vs. Reward: Sometimes, it’s not worth taking risks for a pile of runes. If you’re in an area with a high risk of death, consider if it's worth trying to collect every possible reward or if it’s better to move on to safer places.


In Elden Ring, the thrill of collecting runes is undeniable, but so are the risks that come with it. Being aware of the rune bait traps in the game will save you countless hours and frustrations. Understanding the dangers, using caution, and recognizing when it’s better to leave runes behind will help you preserve your precious resources and improve your chances of success in the treacherous world of the Lands Between.

By taking a thoughtful, strategic approach to rune collection, you’ll be better prepared for the challenges ahead and avoid falling victim to some of Elden Ring's most dangerous traps. Happy adventuring, and may the runes be ever in your favor!